Category Archive: Michelin

Those with stars, seeking stars, or deserving of stars

Review: Aulis, Soho

It’s great when you come away from a meal inspired. In this case I’m both inspired and armed because chef Charlie Tayler has taught me how to make herb flavoured oils! Take equal parts of herb and oil, then whiz them in a blender. Whiz them long enough that the blender heats up, gets really …

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Review: Cornerstone, Hackney

I’ve been wanting to get to Cornerstone for a while, but it’s in Hackney. And I’m south of the river. Pretty much always have been. For those who don’t know, there really do seem to be two worlds in London and you either belong to one or t’other. I can tell you all about Clapham, …

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Review: Mana, Manchester

My favourite thing at Mana. They made a fudge by reducing down 120 litres of cucumber juice to a mere dollop. It no longer tasted of cucumber exactly, but still had a green note along with a deep sticky-sweet flavour a bit seaweedy. This blob made a superb relish for some insanely well cured sea …

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Review: Gymkhana, St James

I’ve done it. I’ve reached “jaded” point with British modern Indian cooking. I came out of Gymkhana thinking a few different things: (1) that was pretty good, (2) I am utterly stuffed… am I actually waddling? and (3) does aloo chat really belong on a £85 tasting menu? Not only aloo chat. We also had …

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Review: Moor Hall, Lancashire

This is our first big splash-out meal since lockdown began, and we’ve kicked off with a truly great one. But I want to start by applauding all the front of house staff in all the restaurants around the country. I hate wearing a mask for 30 minutes to do a supermarket shop. I can’t even …

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